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Hurricane Protection

Wind Mitigation Inspections in Florida: What Lowers Your Insurance, and What to Fix First

By Scott Rosenberg, licensed GC7 min read

The short answer

A wind mitigation inspection documents the features of your home that resist hurricane wind on Florida's official form, OIR-B1-1802, and Florida insurers must give credits for the features it verifies. The form looks at the building code your home was built under, the roof covering, how the roof deck and the roof structure are fastened, roof shape, secondary water resistance and protection of windows and doors. A completed form is generally valid for up to five years if the house does not materially change, and a new version of the form has been required since April 1, 2026.

Ask anyone in South Florida what their homeowners insurance costs and you will probably get a sigh before you get a number. Most of what drives that premium is outside your control: where you live, the market, reinsurance costs. The wind portion of it, though, depends partly on how your house is built, and that part you can prove and sometimes improve.

The proof is a wind mitigation inspection. It is short, it is usually cheap, and it can be worth a lot. Here is what it checks, what changed this year, and how to think about upgrades if you are already planning work on the house.

What a wind mitigation inspection is

It is a visual inspection of the parts of the house that matter in a hurricane, recorded on a standard state form called the Uniform Mitigation Verification Inspection Form, OIR-B1-1802. The inspector looks at the roof from outside, goes into the attic, checks the windows and doors, and backs up each answer with photos and, where needed, permit records or product approvals.

Florida law requires insurers to offer discounts or credits for construction features that reduce wind losses, and the form is how your insurer learns which features you have. Without it, the insurer usually assumes the least favorable answer on every question.

What the form checks

The main questions on the wind mitigation form and what scores best
QuestionWhat the inspector looks forWhat tends to earn the most credit
Building codeThe code in force when the house was permittedBuilt under the Florida Building Code (permit applied for after March 1, 2002), or in Miami-Dade and Broward, the 1994 South Florida Building Code (permit after September 1, 1994)
Roof coveringRoof permit date and the product approval of the coveringA roof permitted on or after March 1, 2002, with approved products
Roof deck attachmentHow the sheathing is nailed to the trusses, or whether the roof deck is concrete8d nails at 6 inches in the field, or a reinforced concrete roof deck
Roof to wall attachmentThe weakest connection between the roof structure and the wallsDouble wraps, or a concrete roof structurally tied to the walls
Roof geometryThe shape of the roofA hip roof (sloped on all four sides)
Secondary water resistanceA layer under the roofing that keeps water out if shingles or tiles blow offSelf-adhering underlayment applied directly to the deck
Opening protectionImpact windows, doors, garage doors, skylights or shutters, rated against flying debrisEvery opening protected with verified, large missile impact products
Simplified from form OIR-B1-1802. Your insurer decides how much each answer is worth.

Two things on that table surprise people. First, the form grades roof to wall attachment and opening protection by the weakest item. One unprotected window or one toe-nailed truss can pull the whole answer down. Second, "protected" means verified. Impact windows with no visible label and no permit record often get marked as unverified, which can cost you the credit you paid for.

What changed in 2026

The Office of Insurance Regulation updated form OIR-B1-1802, and inspectors have had to use the new version since April 1, 2026. The best-known change gives more ways to qualify a roof to wall retrofit: connectors added to an existing house can count based on their tested and documented uplift capacity when they are installed to the manufacturer's instructions, instead of only by how they look. If you had straps added to an older roof, that documentation now matters, so keep it.

What South Florida houses usually score

  • Concrete block houses score well on the walls but the roof is still often wood trusses. What matters is how those trusses are tied to the concrete tie beam. Many have metal straps cast into the beam, and the inspector has to see them from the attic to give credit.
  • Houses permitted after the 1994 code in Miami-Dade and Broward can get credit for the building code question even if they are older than 2002, because they sit in the High-Velocity Hurricane Zone.
  • Hip roofs are common here and score better than gable roofs. You cannot change roof shape cheaply, so this is mostly a question of knowing what you have.
  • Mixed openings are the most common problem. Owners replace the front windows with impact glass and leave a garage door, a back slider or one bathroom window unprotected, which keeps the opening protection answer at the bottom.

Which upgrades are worth it, and when

Wind mitigation upgrades are cheapest when they ride along with work you are already doing. A few examples:

  1. Reroofing. This is the moment to re-nail the roof deck to current standards, add self-adhering underlayment as secondary water resistance, and, with the deck open, reach the roof to wall connections. A new roof permitted today also answers the roof covering question.
  2. Window and door replacement. Finish the job. Protecting every opening, including the garage door and any skylights, is what moves the opening protection answer. Keep the permit, the product approvals and the labels.
  3. Remodels and additions. If walls or ceilings are open, adding or upgrading roof to wall connectors costs far less than doing it from a finished attic.
  4. Paperwork. Sometimes the cheapest upgrade is proof. Old permits and product approvals can turn an unknown answer into a credit.

Before spending money only for a discount, ask your insurance agent to show you what each answer is worth on your policy. Credits vary by insurer and by policy, and the premium savings on some items will take years to pay back the work on their own. Hurricane protection is worth more than the discount, but you should know both numbers.

The My Safe Florida Home program

The state's My Safe Florida Home program offers a free wind mitigation inspection for eligible homes: site-built, single-family, owner-occupied and homesteaded. Homes built before January 1, 2008 with an insured value of $700,000 or less can also apply for grants for the improvements the inspection recommends, such as impact windows and doors, roof to wall connectors, roof deck nailing and secondary water resistance. The standard grant pays $2 for every $1 the homeowner puts in, up to $10,000 from the state. Funding depends on the Legislature and has opened and closed more than once, so check the program's website for the current status before you plan around it.

Who can do the inspection

Florida law lists who can sign a form that insurers must accept: licensed home inspectors with hurricane mitigation training, certified building code inspectors, licensed general, building and residential contractors, professional engineers and architects. Insurers can also accept others they consider qualified, and they can pay for their own inspection to double-check a form.

The bottom line

Get an inspection if you do not have a current one, and get a new one after any roof, window or structural work. If you are planning a roof-related renovation or impact windows and doors, plan the wind mitigation items into the same job so you pay for the access once. Tell us about your project and we will point out which items are worth adding.

Quick questions

What is a wind mitigation inspection in Florida?
A short inspection that records your home's hurricane-resistant features on the state form OIR-B1-1802. Insurers use it to apply wind premium credits for features like impact-rated openings, strong roof to wall connections, a hip roof and secondary water resistance.
How long is a wind mitigation report good for?
Up to five years, according to Florida's Office of Insurance Regulation, as long as there are no material changes to the house and no errors on the form. A new roof, new windows or an addition is a good reason to get a new one.
Did the wind mitigation form change in 2026?
Yes. A revised OIR-B1-1802 has been required for inspections since April 1, 2026. Among the changes, roof to wall retrofits can qualify based on tested and documented uplift capacity when installed to the manufacturer's instructions.
Do I lose the opening protection credit if one window is not impact rated?
Usually, yes. The form grades opening protection by the weakest protected opening, so a single unprotected window, slider, skylight or garage door can lower the answer for the whole house.
Can a general contractor sign a wind mitigation form?
Yes. Florida law includes licensed general, building and residential contractors among the people whose signed form insurers must accept, along with qualified home inspectors, building code inspectors, engineers and architects.
Is there help paying for hurricane upgrades?
My Safe Florida Home offers free inspections and, for eligible homesteaded homes built before 2008, matching grants up to $10,000 for recommended improvements, when funding is available. Check the program's site for current status.

Sources

This article is general information, not legal advice. Building departments in Miami-Dade, Broward and Palm Beach counties set their own procedures, so confirm the requirements for your property with your local building department.

Scott Rosenberg

Florida Certified General Contractor, CGC1541479

Scott qualifies Rosemont Ventures Group LLC and has worked in general contracting since 1998. He writes Building Blocks to answer the questions South Florida owners ask before they build. Verify the license.

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